Market Stall
9 May 2002
In America the kids aren't alright. Gun culture not withstanding, the nutritional status of the next generation is in a state of chaos. It might be the least of that great nation's problems in this era, but the overlords-that-be have decided that the young adults of the United States aren't eating enough butter. I'm not taking the piss. Marketers for [Nameless For Legal Reasons] butter have reformulated it in a squishy manner, coloured it neon pink and blue and shoved it into a squeezy tube. No more dull spreading yellow solids onto boring bread - now you can write your name in magenta butter onto funky ciabatta before microscootering off into the sunset. Cyan-tinged baked spuds, dripping with duck-egg blue lardy goodness is the future. Parents need fear no more that their offspring's membranes will grow flabby through lack of cholesterol (and that's science, kids!) - they'll be padded out with dayglo cow juice with cell membranes rigid enough to withstand enemy fire. When the range expands beyond blue and pink into the rest of the spectrum, dinner tables across the land can expect to see the first high-calorie Degas copies spread across their wonderbread. "Janet? Come see how little Sebastian's painted The Last Supper over his sandwiches!" And so on. A fearsome thing, for a standard, traditional foodstuff to have to relaunch itself gloriously into the market-place in the face of falling sales. And strange too, to have to remind the public that the item which they remember from their childhoods still exists but is now even more fabulous than they remembered. The chairman of ButterCom looking at that quarter's sales returns and muttering "But it's butter! - how could they not buy it? What are they cooking their grits in, engine oil?" Of course we can see how the marketing board then arrived at the decision to push butter to infants and teens. Pester-power is an amazingly strong force, and children know how best to bully their parents into buying them what they want. Besides, who else could be targeted, and how? The standard route of making products sexy doesn't really work - men don't stop by the apartment of their attractive neighbour to borrow cups of Lurpak. Marlon Brando made famous the concept of butter as lube, but Crisco has far surpassed that now. And no right-think divorcˇe tries to seduce her next boyfriend with a friendly "Dinner at mine? I'll be cooking with...BUTTER", unless said boyfriend has kinky Brando-esque fetishes. "Goddamn, Jack! How'd'ya manage to uproot all those trees so fast?" "Well Jim - let's just say the wife made my dinner tonight with some golden lovin'" Possibly not - shades of golden showers there. But maybe the Butter Association, or the Dairy League, or whoever's responsible for filling US stomachs with cheese and whey, felt that manliness and muscles weren't quite the right image to be associated with the humble slab o' grease. So they got hip with the kids, and good luck to them. May their sales increase and their brand-image -"BUTTER - not just yellow"- spread (bad pun - apologies). It's hard enough to repackage old goods as new, let alone to the younger, stupider generation. Before we go though - a brief glimpse into the future. Twenty years from now, when today's youth have grown to be the CEOs of tomorrow. The company meetings to discuss the merger of Coke-GlaxoWellcomeSmithKlineBeecham-Nike with Nestle-Mars-Exxon. Making polite conversation afterwards over tiny canapˇ morsels, looking out over the city through the window. The last light from the sunset glowing into the CEO's faces, with the neon-green blinis, glitter-infused sour cream and UV-reactive caviar twinkling gently in their hands.
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